await the intrepid motor-biker
The charm and beauty of Valchiavenna appeal not only to those who love to wander the pathways or trek along its ancient routes. In summer when the weather tempts everyone outdoors our local roads are buzzing with bikers heading for the Alpine passes close at hand. Leaving from Chiavenna it’s a short spin to the Maloja pass on the way to Engadina, and the same applies to the Spluga pass which neatly links Italy with the Swiss heartland. One of the most popular tours with bikers though, is one taking in a further pass, the Julier, incorporating in a complete ‘ring-shape’ a magnificent opportunity to appreciate a range of different landscapes, with much history in evidence and a variety of architectural styles, all set within a fabulous corner of the Alpine arc. The route we are highlighting leaves Chiavenna and climbs towards Spluga. Once over the border it moves on to Coira, before turning south in Engadina and over the Julier pass before returning
to Chiavenna, for a combined total of around 230 10 kilometres.
From Chiavenna, at a height of just 333 metres, the road climbs immediately with some serious gradients ahead and moves towards the Passo dello Spluga. Hairpin bends and twists provide a thorough examination of a biker’s ability. Statale 36 goes through the villages of San Giacomo and Campodolcino, and in the latter the biker has two options: head for the village of Isola - definitely the ‘softer’ choice, and slightly longer, or to take the road to Pianazzo with its extremely tight turns hugging the mountainside and yet seemingly overhanging the valley below. From the point of view of panoramas and landscape - the second option is absolutely stunning. The two roads join up again shortly before Madesimo from where it’s straight up to the Pass at a height of 2113metres and just 32 kilometres from Chiavenna.
Into Switzerland:
Once across the border the road dives down towards the valley bottom and hence now the brakes come into play. The series of bends the biker encounters almost immediately after the customs point are reminiscent of the Stelvio run. So - from Spluga down to the first little Swiss town - that of Splügen, at 1450 metres - a mere dozen kilometres away. Thence towards Andeer, Thusis and Coira in a steady, undemanding descent giving biker and machine a little respite. There are any number of places along the way to have a break. Evidence of the area’s history and culture abounds: it simply depends on how long the biker wants to spend viewing church or museum. So from Coira, at around 600 metres and roughly 100 kilometres from your starting-off point the road begins to climb again towards Lenzerheide (1540m), then down once more to Tiefencastel (850m). It’s here that the climb to Julier (2280m) begins. The biker’s covered 164 kilometres from Chiavenna at this point: a fantastic climb awaits, through ever-changing countryside, where up high the differing shades of stone catch the eye, contrasting with meadow and glorious blue skies. It’s worth having a little break at the highest point here. Try to cast your mind back centuries and imagine roman soldiers heading out of Italy - Julius Caesar at the helm (the pass has adopted his name) - on their way to Gaul - on the campaign which would make Rome great.
The Julier Pass and the descent
The biker turns his back on the Julier now, and the road makes its way down towards Chiavenna - taking in the Maloja Pass (1806m) - and involving a drop of around 2000 metres over a distance of 80 kilometres. Those who wish might consider a break at St. Moritz - a favourite for lovers of shopping and all things chic. The return to Italy is much enhanced by the magnificent views in Val Bregaglia with its splendidly-preserved little communities and legendary Pizzo Badile one of many impressive granite peaks standing out against the sky.
Bikers can do this tour in a single day, even if leaving from further afield. But it’s certainly worth considering a pit-stop in Chiavenna even if just for one night; it might just make the whole adventure even more enjoyable instead of simply hurtling off on a long,
demanding trip. The Consorzio turistico is always available to make suggestions on where to stay, and places to see in and around the town.
