Uschione just has to be one of the most attractive hamlets in Valchiavenna. Situated half-way up the valley side and once inhabited on a permanent basis, today it still boasts splendidly preserved dwellings which blend effortlessly within a magnificent landscape. Get there by tackling the dry-stone mule track.
Valchiavenna is not simply “an environment composed of vast, barren mountains with rocky outcrops”, as none other than Leonardo Da Vinci himself proclaimed during his sojourn here in 1490. It’s a magnificent spot which serves up the perfect conditions for serious hiking, alongside historical, cultural and gastronomic delights.
One way of appreciating just how rural life has evolved is readily at hand. Set out on a hike up to the delightful hamlet of Uschione (832m) in the Municipality of Chiavenna. Though you can actually get there by car if you prefer, having secured the necessary permit from the bar Nandino at Prata. And of course mountain bike or E-bike enthusiasts can follow the same route.
The bolder amongst us however might just prefer to make their way leisurely upwards taking in some magnificent vista along the way. The oldest route, represented by the mule track is accessed in the “Deserto” quarter in via al Tiglio. It’s particularly well-signposted. The mule track itself is made up of an infinite number of steps! But it’s manageable enough for all and sundry. In around 15 minutes we reach the lush meadows of “Belvedere” (470m) which provides some magnificent views over Chiavenna and entry to the three valleys. Across and above the village of Pianazzola sits seemingly suspended, with the unmistakable cross indicating Dalò even higher up.
Time to head off into woodland now and we encounter an ancient potstone (pietra ollare) quarry, then adjacent to a fountain we reach an enormous boulder known locally as “sass che gota”, or the “stone that drips”. A little further on the wood thins out, and we stumble upon the mountain dwellings of the “contrada Zarucchi ”, and immediately after those of “Pighetti” whose attractive ancient abodes make up the central core and essence of Uschione itself.
I love wandering around on the plateau where the village somehow came together. The silence is intense, broken only by the sound of water from the fountain. The path which crosses Uschione leads naturally enough to the church dedicated to the Ascension (1609). You’ll be greeted here by Fabrizio who runs the restaurant/refuge in the renovated, atmospheric rooms of the former rectory. It’s a great place to stay: there are five bedrooms, a dining room and a terraced area set up for eating in the open air. It comes highly recommended. Exquisite dishes from a menu incorporating typical Valchiavenna cuisine. Home-cooking at its very best.
