Valchiavenna was the muse and inspiration of a quite extraordinary reportage, which last October saw the Dutch journalist Roman Helinski and photographer David Peskens as protagonists. On their bicycles, they explored every corner of our fascinating territory, from wild Val Bregaglia to the majestic peaks of the Spluga Pass, moving of course through Chiavenna, which during the days of the “Dì de la Brisaola” came alive with flavours and traditions. Each pedal stroke revealed enchanting places, each encounter lifted the soul with stories steeped in culture and passion for these Alpine lands. In the pages that follow, we host some of the splendid shots taken by David Peskens, who captured the real essence of their adventure, accompanied by the reflections of Roman Helinski, through the emotions and discoveries of this unforgettable journey.

 

Lombardy was enjoying an “Indian summer,” with aboveaverage temperatures, but the leaves remained in mesmerizing colors. We were here to try mountain bike trails. Adam Quadroni, our local guide, warmed us up with a ride to Crana, a typical alpine village. As we pedaled, the sky rained chestnuts. The trip with Adam delved into history, including the 1618 Piuro landslide and the ancient origins of Chiavenna. Adam, a professional cyclist, effortlessly navigated woodland paths. We soon arrived at the Swiss border, and had dinner just inside Switzerland. The panorama was extraordinary; I focused on the impressive mountain ranges and occasional castle towers.

 

Back in Chiavenna the following day, we met Giulia again and headed to the Spluga alpine pass, about 30 km away. We stopped halfway in Campodolcino, where Giulia lives. She spoke of winter, when the pass is closed from November to March. We met the mayor, who runs a local museum dedicated to the valley&´s history and the Via Spluga, a once-vital trade route mentioned by Goethe and Erasmus.

 

We then stopped in Montespluga, just short of the summit, to enjoy brisaola and cheese. Giulia introduced us to local crotti, natural mountain cellars with constant temperatures of around eight degrees.

 

On the way back to Chiavenna, I noted persimmon trees laden with almost-ripe fruit. The next two evenings, I explored paths above the town, enjoying views over the rooftops and the Marmitte dei Giganti. Another trip took me higher to Pianazzola, where I visited the vineyards of the Hermau family. Maurizio and Monica were returning with a cart full of white grapes, harvested early due to climate change. Maurizio’s agriturismo offers spacious rooms with spectacular views, while his wife organizes special gastronomic tastings. I could see Palazzo Vertemate in the distance, a magnificent Renaissance mansion with inlaid ceilings and expansive gardens. Alessandra, my guide, couldn’t imagine living anywhere else.