A 17 kilometre excursion with a height differential of 500m.
If like me you’re a mtb enthusiast, Campodolcino provides the perfect base for outings on two wheels. Whether you’re a fan of the models requiring “muscles” or prefer the more leisurely
type with pedal assistance, Valle Spluga proposes any number of routes up and around the Alpine villages which in springtime welcomes anew its inhabitants.
From the many itineraries at your disposal, I chose one which takes you to Bondeno from where you can enjoy a magnificent view of the valley below. Our outing heads off from Campodolcino (1100m). The churchyard of the church of San Giovanni Battista in the Tini
neighbourhood and the initial 3 km are on asphalt, along the road that takes you to Fraciscio. After the bridge, bear right towards Mottala (1354m) where a pond and a small lake represent
differing stages of the evolution of a peat bog, which we negotiate by way of a wooden footbridge. It’s a particularly evocative spot. But we move on to Gualdera, situated in a vast basin occupied by woodland and pastures overlooking the valley bottom. We’ve made it to Palù. And at the first bend the road becomes traffic-free and we head into larch woodland as far as the rustic nucleus of Bondeno situated on a slight slope.
Towards the end of spring you’re likely to come across cattle and sheep on their way to the
upper pastures. It’s a genuine treat to see thousands of sheep with their lambs in tow,
scampering through the meadows. Once at the mountain huts of Bondeno di Fuori,
it’s certainly worth hanging around to take in the breathtaking views from a position
with a sheer cliff edge of around 1000m and the entire valle Spluga before you, all the way down down to Valchiavenna below.
Stupendous.
Prior to heading back down, take a little detour to the left along a white road characterised by its grassy base which leads nicely to a charming little church. Then, after a truly spectacular section the road reaches the small and atmospheric nucleus of Bondeno. From here you can resume the precise route adopted on the way up. Once in Campodolcino I strongly recommend you visit the ethnographic museum MUVIS. It’s housed in an outstanding 16th century mansion which was renovated and enlarged in the mid-18th century and where artefacts and documents on the history, civilisation and traditions of the Valle Spluga are exhibited. Anyone who still has half a “muscle” left, might consider ending the day at the Acqua Merla park, to take in the centuries-old mineral water spring, and enjoy a well-earned and hearty snack at the nearby kiosk
All bike itineraries in Valchiavenna:
Info: www.valchiavennabike.com
