A MAGICAL PLACE
It must have happened to all of us – any number of times - passing right by wonderful locations – not a moment’s hesitation, without ever realising what we’re missing. That’s precisely the case for the many who travel along the Statale 36 between Verceia and Novate Mezzola, just a few hundred metres away from a classic jewel of Roman Lombardy. Here there’s a church dedicated to San Fedele, actually called a ‘little temple’ because of its tiny dimensions; it’s set within a verdant clearing; hedged in between the gently-flowing Mera and the harsh rocky buttress of Berlinghera, the first northern bulwark of Monti Lariani. A fascinating, mystical place where there’s a monumental silence, and where it seems nature has finally found total peace and harmony with Man: the little church has watched over for more than a thousand years the rippling waters and the seasons changing guard. A mass of vegetation today tries its hardest to drown out noises emanating from the nearby main road and blocks out anything unduly modern. Time has pretty much stood still here.
This little corner represents a tiny unpolluted oasis set between the plain of Valchiavenna and the Nature reserve of the Pian di Spagna and Lago di Mezzola. It’s tantalisingly near at hand but at the same time remains curiously inaccessible. Though being only a matter of
a few hundred metres as the crow flies from provincial Trivulzia, the church is the end-point of two differing routes, both of which requires an outing of around 2 hours pleasant walking.
The first option for walkers is the mostly level path which leaves Casenda, and skirts the Mera. But in spring we’d invite you to consider our preferred option: it takes a little longer (allow a couple of hours both ways) but from both a historic and landscape point of view it’s particularly rewarding; the route leaves Dascio at the extreme western point of Lago di Mezzola. Compared to the Casenda route, this is a much sunnier option and made even more enjoyable because of the wide range of bird-life on view. Let’s explore a little. Head off from the little scenic parking lot slightly above the village. Decent paving makes life easy up to Sasso di Dascio, a splendid viewpoint overlooking Pian di Spagna and the majestic Legnone. It’s a perfect position for ‘twitchers’: away and above the waters of the Mera, which meander within the Nature reserve of Pian di Spagna/Lago di Mezzola, where the white outlines of swans stand out, whilst in the grasses herons and cormorants mingle.
The route invariably throws up opportunities to observe some fine species at first hand: kingfisher skimming along the water at speed, wild ducks feeding, small groups of coot – fabulous swimmers – and teal, grebe and tufted duck. So don’t forget your binoculars! Proceed along to a group of houses, where the dirt track becomes a a path and heads straight into a gorge and across a stream by way of a fine old stone bridge. The track continues up a little and rather stumbles into a small valley and then out again along flights of steps. Striking chestnut trees all around impose their natural order.
Onwards and upwards briefly prior to reaching rocky slabs bereft of vegetation, at the highest point of the walk, with magnificent panoramas over Lago di Mezzola and across to Val Codera. It’s all downhill now, once again within thick chestnut wood. Ignore the deviation for San Fedelino on the right (it’s a ‘direct’ route and serves better on the way back) and go a
little lower down along a wonderful, if somewhat battered, stone ramp, called Scala della Regina (the Queen’s staircase). Right here, years ago was the old Via Regina, the road trail which linked Como to Chiavenna, up until the main road was shifted onto the other bank of
Lago di Mezzola, where it remains today. Hence we reach the banks of the Mera. A mere strip of land, between the river (on the left) and the smooth rocky walls of Berlinghera (on the right): ten minutes within a magical environment follow, made evocative by willowy branch stretching out over the river, supple and slight almost in caress mode.
Up a couple of interesting little metal staircases, over several rocky outcrops we finally enter the little clearing where the tiny roman church stands.
Fedele was a roman legionary under Emperor Massimiano and we can probably place him around the end of the 3rd century. When resentment grew on the part of the Emperor towards Christian beliefs, Fedele, a profound Christian, mutinied along with many of his colleagues. Massimiano’s reaction was bloody. Fedele, now on the run, was chased by hired killers and beheaded on the very spot where ‘his’ little church stands. His remains lay there until the year 964 when they were discovered by a devout local woman, believed by many to be divine intervention; the relics of the martyr were moved to the church of Sant’Eufemia at Como; he was then granted sainthood, whilst locals quickly set about building the little church which stands pretty much unchanged even to this day, on the spot where he was discovered. When we’ve had our fill of this magical little place,
we head for the so-called Salto delle Capre by reclimbing the rockfall behind the church, a somewhat steep stretch this. Back within the chestnut woods, there’s a rocky outcrop to the left overlooking Lago di Mezzola.
OPENING TIME 2022
May- October
Saturday, Sunday and national holidays: 14-16.30
PRICES
Full ticket: € 1,00
Reduced ticket: € 0,50
- children (up to 18 years old);
- students;
- groups with at least10 people);
- over 60 years.
Special Openings: € 20,00
